Buenos Aires--home of tango, leather goods, pasta, yerba mate, and meat, meat, meat. Since we had only a few days because of Patrícia’s new job, we bought a package deal for flights, hotel, transfers, and tour. This was good thinking because we did not have to figure out any of the logistical details I normally have to deal with and we could enjoy exploring right away from our luxurious five star hotel right in the Centro area, half a block from the middle of the main pedestrian shopping street, Florida. The Claridge Hotel, built in 1946 was splendid in atmosphere and service. For someone like me who is so used to doing everything for myself, five star level service is something to be experienced.
We went to a tango show at the place all of her relatives recommended, Senor Tango, and while the show was spectacular and impressive, it was also spectacularly touristy. The production was highly refined and very elaborately choreographed, including indigenous pan flute playing, Indians on horses, many sultry and passionate tango dances, singing, and musical numbers. They did a couple excellently accurate renditions of Moulin Rouge, the movie, songs with the full production values. The cost, including a nice dinner with wine, champagne, show, and hotel transfers was only $70 USD a person. Not too bad for five hours of entertainment and food.
We quickly discovered that Argentineans have a very different idea of portion sizes. Everywhere we ate, the pasta or meat was enough for several people, while the accompanying vegetables and sides are afterthoughts at half portions or less. It was all about the meat. I believe the saying, “when in Rome, do as the Roman’s do,” so I did my best and I think I ended up eating half a cow in four days. I wouldn’t have done so if it wasn't really good. I can’t imagine trying to be a vegetarian there. Peculiarly, they are also famous for pasta, stemming form some kind of Italian immigration in the past.
I had to buy a yerba mate gourd and metal filtering straw because over ninety percent of the country’s population drinks the stuff. It is one of those must try travel experiences. The gourds are decorated with silver/fake silver and are available everywhere. And I mean everywhere. I don’t think I was ever more than 50 meters from someone selling them. Apparently, you fill the gourd with the ground up and dried yerba mate plant, fill it with hot, not boiling, water, and sip it all day long, refilling it with water up to about ten times before the mate is used up. The list of health benefits is long and largely unsupported by empirical evidence, but that many people can’t be wrong. Can they? Okay, so they can be, but I am going on trust here. I kept missing the mate service in the hotel so I will try it back in Brasil.
All those cows cut up and charred for consumption leaves a whole lot o’ leather. Which explains why almost every shop sells leather coats/products and every other shop makes them. Not surprisingly, the prices are very good with that much competition. I couldn’t resist buying a cool, heavy jacket for riding my scooter. It was half or less of what I would have paid in the US and when Patrícia, smiling seductively, told me how manly I looked in it, I had no choice but to buy it.
We are leaving wishing we had more time to do more than just touch the sights and flavors. It will have to wait for another time. Now its back to Brasil for a bit before I head to Europe again.
