Granada is a lovely place that has a very comfortable feel. I was lucky to get in through an affirmative action program for non-dreadlocked people. Inexplicably, the second most popular hairstyle is the mullet, often with dreads in the back. I felt like a minority with conservatively short hair.
The hills around the city are filled with cave dwellings that originally created by Gypsies and now are predominately occupied by hippies. I think the long-term exposure to the hemp masters rubbed off on the general population. It still doesn't explain the mullet thing though.
The city is dominated by the huge and beautiful Alhambra, perched on a hilltop in its midst. There is a saying here that says, “If you die without seeing the Alhambra, you have not lived.” I can only imagine what it was like when it was occupied. According to the guidebook, when the last Moorish ruler, Boabdil, was finally pushed out by overwhelming forces, he looked back longingly at his beloved Alhambra and his mother told him, “You do well to weep as a woman for what you could not defend as a man.” Dang Mom, that’s a little harsh, don’tcha think? I feel for the guy, the place is spectacular.
I stayed in the Oasis, the best hostel of my travels, right in the center of town. It was a combination of a really fun group of people, free wi-fi, a cool bar, cheap delicious dinners, and nice facilities. Throw in lots of tapas, kebabs, beer, poker, intimate flamenco, many funny conversations, inebriated chess matches, and a hilarious Argentinean and it equals the best time I have had in a long time. Tapas come free with drinks in Granada and make a tasty and cheap way to eat at noon or 7:00 or midnight or much later. As good as tapas are, I still recommend the juicy, 3am kebab to finish off the evening. My friends included Patrício from Argentina, Sam from Scotland, Gid from the UK, Bianca from Australia, a bunch of Americans, Herberto the indecisive, and what’s his name from NY.
I had a very good time in Granada.
