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Friday, November 10, 2006

Day 57 In Hot Water in Brazil

We went to the city of Caldas Novas for the weekend, about a four hour drive. The drive itself was an experience. I would describe it as either a formula one race on narrow and occasionally marginal roads with oncoming traffic or as a chance to drive the way we really wish we could drive.

In Brasil, stop signs don't mean stop. They mean slow down if there are other cars, and if not, ignore them completely, just like a yield sign. Speed limits are supposedly enforced; although, you would be hard pressed to find anyone that was going anywhere near that slow. Another fun aspect is that the acceptable distance between cars is very different than in the US. If you want to pass, it is normal to get within, say 8 to 10 feet, sometimes less, when you are going 80 mph. You just get real close and edge out into the other lane so you can see if any cars are coming and then you go for it, nevermind about passing zones, curves, or bothersome things like that. If you think you can make it, go! The thing that makes this work is that people let you back in the lane even if there is almost no room. The drivers here are very accommodating for merging and pushing your way into traffic. They know you want in and they let you in. It is both chaotic and very civil. I had to laugh when we were in a line of maybe 20 cars going about 70mph and as soon as the oncoming traffic passed, most of the cars jumped into the left lane and floored it.

Into Hot Water

Gifted with prolific natural hot springs, the town of Caldas Novas is comprised of vacation resorts and tourist shops. It feels exactly like a beach town even though it is a very very long way to the coast. We rented an apartment in a resort and spent almost everyday at the resort next door, which was nicer. We didn't sneak in, (I know that is what you are thinking, Mom) Patricia's sister was staying there and the owner is a friend of their dad's.

I don't have any good photos, so picture lush green tropical environment with many big pools of warm mineral water, pool bars, water slides, live bands poolside, and buffets and you can start to get the picture. I particularly loved the fresh, nearly frozen coconuts that they machete the top off and stick a straw in so that you can drink the coconut juice. After you are done, they hack it open so can then eat the soft young coconut inside.

When I think hot springs, I think of water that is so hot, you can only stay in it for 15-20 minutes. These varied in temperature from body temperature to maybe 10 degrees warmer, allowing you to sit in them very comfortably all day long, drinking, eating, and playing in the open or under big pool umbrellas. And yes you can eat in the pool. The band was great. They adeptly covered the Brasilian popular music as well American and British music. Forget 20 minute sets, they played for almost all day, switching between people as they needed.

Prices for most things are about the same as in the US except for the food. One all you can eat restaurant was $2.75/person. I'll describe the Brasilian food another time, except for one notable item. At the fore mentioned restaurant, I eyed some interesting roasted potato like foodstuffs and threw a few on my plate. I am always up for trying new things. They had a nice yellow sauce and looked delicious.

The first warning I got went unheeded. It was from a nice woman in line next to me that spotted me as a non-Brasilian and was attempting to tell me something in Portuguese. I thought she was saying that they were spicy and I thanked her and said that I knew and I liked spicy foods (in English of course). The second warning piqued my interest. Patricia saw them on my plate in passing and said not to eat them or I would get into trouble, I ignored her still thinking that they were spicy. The third warning really got my attention. I was mid-bite when she yelled, "stop!" I was told not to bite them under any circumstances. What? Why would they be in a buffet line if not to eat? I was finally shown the proper way to almost consume them. I say almost because all you can do is scrape the 2 millimeter thick soft exterior off with your teeth. If you bite them, you are treated with a mouthful of a thousand painful spines that you will regret for a very very long time. Not exactly my idea of a 'fun' food and the taste was bland too. Apparently, it is a regional thing.

I didn't take many photos because it was so wet, either from the pools or the pleasant light rain that fell much of the time. Sorry.